SILVER SHADOW REVISITED

Silver Shadow Rejuvenated

I was last aboard Silver Shadow five years ago, and wanted to see how well the ship is standing up. The inspection consisted of a full ship tour plus a fixed menu lunch at The Restaurant. Clearly, much effort has gone into updating this gem of a ship. From clam shell 'Bali Beds' by the pool, to new mattresses and linens in the suites, new carpeting- the soft goods were in terrific shape. The diversity of suites- vista and veranda are identical, except for the balcony, but also medallion, silver, grand, royal and owner suites mean that there is an excellent array of choices. Double sinks, separate wc's in the higher categories, but the same attention to detail and the fine marble run throughout. On another general note, the Shadow, and its twin the Whisper, are ideally sized, with perhaps the highest passenger space ratio in the industry, at well over 75 tonnes/passenger. Public spaces are generous, and there are the additional amenities- such as the Connoisseur's Corner and the upscale Le Champagne, not found on smaller ships. There is no full promenade deck, and the top deck allows no running, but these are minor deficits. I was impressed by the overall housekeeping and immaculate condition of the ship. Lunch was WAY better than my last cuisine experiences aboard Silver Cloud in 2009. Each dish was perfect- the poached king salmon was fresh, the beef tenderloin excellent. They poured very good west coast wines- a riesling from Oregon, a cabernet from California, both of which were premium varietals from known boutique vineyards. This is by no means the same as impressions that might be gathered from a week long trip, but the 'wow' factor was palpable. The crew is now quite international, and genuinely worked hard and skillfully from my observations. Guests expect the best from luxury cruises, and rightfully so. While I cannot speak to the many other aspects of a cruise aboard Silver Shadow, the ship itself is just about perfect.

LUXURY ADVENTURE/EXPEDITION CRUISES

So far in this blog, we've gone over just what constitutes luxury cruising, and done a cursory review of the 'big four'.

That hardly exhausts the field of choice. While many companies claim a luxury moniker, applying the litmus tests outlined in my first luxury blog posting, it does narrow a bit.

First, let's distinguish luxury from expensive. An 11 day trip to the North Pole aboard the nuclear icebreaker 50 Years of Victory is hardly inexpensive, starting at $24,00 plus your air to Murmansk Russia! Helicopter flights are extra.... I'd love to book you on this, but it is NOT luxurious, it's adventurous.

But there ARE luxurious adventure cruises out there- Orion Cruises, Silver Explorer and now the Explorer II, Hapag-Lloyd Hanseatic, Travel Dynamics International's Corinthian, and Le Ponant's trio of ships- LeBoreal, L'Austral, LeSoleal (2013), and an as yet unnamed fourth for 2014. What ALL of these ships have in common are ice-hardened hulls and high class onboard services and amenities. 

Looking at them, there are more similarities than differences, yet each has its own flavour and personality....

ORION EXPEDITION CRUISES

Orion is an Australian company, operating two ships, the Orion and Orion II, simply enough. The latter will be moving out of fleet in 2013, to be replaced over time. A digression- Orion II, Explorer II, Corinthian are all sister ships, built around 1990 for now defunct Renaissance Cruise Lines. They feature all-suite accommodations, and carry around 100 passengers each.

Orion was built 2003, and epitomizes luxury adventure cruising. With an E3 ice hardened hull, a high crew ration- 73 for  106 passengers, this is 5 star all the way, with award winning cuisine on down.

Anyway, Orion has as its stock-in-trade the waters around Australia- the Great Barrier Reef, the remoteKimberly region of north Australia. But they do venture to Borneo, Papua New Guinea, Japan and other East Asia destinations including Kamchatka. Plus Antarctica- with a twist. Rather than doing the regular route from the tip of South America to the Antarctic Peninsula, they go from the south tip of New Zealand or Tasmania, and head toward the Ross Sea. Utterly unique!

COMPAGNIE DU PONANT

They bill themselves as 'yacht cruises', and have actually been around for quite a while. But they have divested themselves of some older ships- Le Diamont (ex Radission Song of Flower and now chartered by Quark expeditions), and soon Le Le Levant, which is going to Paul Gauguin Cruises.

While not the pinnacle of luxury, their French flair and cuisine, white glove service, sleek contemporary styling (akin to W hotels in my view) easily put them on a par with the others. Le Ponant is the newly updated sailing ship.  Plus the 4 sisterships all have a new hull rating for ice- 1C, which puts them just below the icebreakers.

Once all four ships are operating, they will be the biggest show in Antarctica, with 2 ships running from Ushuaia, another from South Africa (2014), and the last from the South Pacific.

When not in Antarcica, expect to see Ponant ships in the Arctic (this year they featured an Iceland intensive departure),  the coast of Africa, India, and even returning to the Great Lakes, where Le Levant used to visit.

SILVERSEA

Because I have already covered that brand, these are just supplementals. The Prince Albert II was acquired a few years ago, refurbished- more like stripped to the bones and redone, and is now caled the Silver Explorer. It is almost like the other mainstream luxury Silversea ships, but more informal, AND, of course, it carries a fleet of zodiacs and goes to where no other Silversea vessel would ever venture. She is almost always sold out a year in advance.

Very recently, Canodros, an Ecuadorian company operating a single ship in the Galapagos, was purchased by Silversea, so their ship will come under a new wing, and undoubtedly,  get upgraded to 5 star standards.

HAPAG-LLOYD

When you have this (the above), and add this (the below), you definitely have something.

Hardly a well known cruises brand in North America, this German company is of course synonymous with containers. But Douglas Ward, the author of the bible on cruising, rates the Europa as the top ship afloat- anywhere. HL also has other ships, including the Hanseatic, which became the first to transit the Northwest passage, albeit not without going aground briefly. That ship is in a class of its own, with a high ice rating, an amazing array of itineraries, and a long history of performance. As I write, she is once again readying for a top of the world transit.

A lot of the imagery in this blog has been of polar regions, but obviously, these ships need to go from one pole to the other, and so there are always voyages which traverse the tropics and temperate zones.

No matter which one strikes your fancy, rest assured that they represent the best of the best in expedition travel.

Pullmantur Cruises- Who's Heard of Them?

Not exactly a household name in North America, Pullmantur has been around for over 30 years. It is a Spanish company, now 49% owned by Royal Caribbean International.  Other RCI offshoots are Azamara, Celebrity and Xpedition (Galapagos).

Pullmantur is absolutely unique in one respect- all beverages aboard are included. So, as with the more luxury brands, your wine, beers, cocktails, soft drinks and specialty coffees are all included. Yet the price point is more than reasonable, with 7 night cruises in the 700 Euro range, but starting at way less.

As well, their ships are good quality hand-me-downs from Celebrity and RCCL. So, the Horizon and Zenith, both 1990 era ships from Celebrity, were rejuvenated and and now fly the Pullmantur flag. The Sovereign and Empress come from RCCL. In 2013, they will be joined by the Monarch of the Seas. This compares favourably with such companies as Fred. Olsen and the operators of the Marco Polo, who run much older ships and are primarily catering to British tastes.

English is spoken throughout the ship, in addition to Spanish, and touches include tapas instead of afternoon tea, Flamenco, classical guitar and maybe a few arias from Carmen replace the usual Vegas/ Broadway style entertainment.

Pullmantur operates only in Europe and the Souther Caribbean. They do the Med., Baltic, and, during repositionings, take in Madeira, Casablanca, the Canaries, before heading over for the Dutch Antilles, Panama, and even the Colombian and Venezuelan coastal islands and ports.

When I say "They do the Med.", I mean they really know know the Med. In that sense they are  like Costa and MSC, with deep roots in the area. The itineraries include the Adriatic, Turkey and Greece, and venture up the Norwegian Coast. Their Baltic Capitals takes in St. Petersburg, and lesser visited ports as Helsinki and Tallin.

Perhaps it is best to let Pullmantur's own words describe their product:

All Pullmantur Cruises sold in Canada include the following exclusive advantages:

1. ALL INCLUSIVE CRUISE – includes stateroom of choice, all food, all entertainment, all soft drinks, specialty teas and coffees, afternoon tea and tapas, all domestic beer, all domestic (Spanish and Portuguese) wines, all liquor and water in all bars anytime of the day or night. (Clients can SAVE over $350 per person or more per week)
2. FOR THE YOUNGEST ONES – Infants – All children sharing cabin with Parents up to 2 years of age – FREE CRUISE AND PORT CHARGES / NO CHARGE, available on ALL CRUISES, ALL YEAR!
3. WE UNDERSTAND YOUNG PEOPLE – All children sharing cabin with Parents from 2-17 years of age (not yet turned 17) – FREE CRUISE / PAY ONLY PORT CHARGES AND GRATUITIES, available on ALL CRUISES, ALL YEAR
4. EXCLUSIVE SINGLE PARENT PROGRAMME – Single parents pay only one single low fare (NO supplement), and accompanying children cruise as per #2 and #3 above. Finally a cruise line that has done away with the “double occupancy” standard enforced by all other cruise lines.
5. INCLUDED TRAVEL INSURANCE – Medical repatriation, Family or companion repatriation due to medical repatriation of the insured, Minor or disabled escort, Medical assistance worldwide, repatriation of remains – NO CHARGE . 2 other optional insurance policies available for $30 and $40. (see p.39 in catalogue for complete description and details). Your clients travel worry free and with peace of mind.
6. COMPETITIVE PRICING – All Pullmantur Cruises are sold in Canada in U.S Dollars. Our total per diems are less, due to our exclusive all-inclusive system, and offer your clients the confidence and assurance of no extra onboard beverage charges, while enjoying a one of a kind cruise experience.
7. UNIQUE PORTS OF CALL – In both the Mediterranean and the Caribbean, Pullmantur delivers unique ports of call not offered by the mass market cruise lines – Oporto Portugal, Bilbao Spain, Casablanca Morocco, Puerto Progreso Mexico, Colon Panama or La Guaira Venezuela. Your clients can expand their horizons with Pullmantur Cruises. Many of our cruises also allow your passengers to embark from a choice of ports, to suit their schedule and air routing.
8. HUMAN SIZED SHIPS – All the modern fleet of Pullmantur ships are comfortably sized and right for the itineraries they feature. Our smallest ship carries 1442 passengers (Ocean Dream), and largest ship 2733 passengers (Sovereign) – see p.23 2012 catalogue for the Pullmantur fleet.
9. PROFESSIONAL, EXPERIENCED SHIPS CREW and hotel management, WITH A SAFETY RECORD SECOND TO NONE. Pullmantur Cruises is proud of their many years of safe cruising globally.
10. NEW CANADIAN PULLMANTUR CATALOGUE – available immediately upon request. E-mail or phone for your copy.

The free sailing for kids, included partial medical insurance, single parent no supplement all contribute to making this a brand to truly consider.

THE BIG FOUR IN LUXURY CRUISES

Crystal Serenity

Silversea Spirit

Regent Voyager

Seabourn Odyssey

As stated in the last posting, luxury comes in many forms. Within the cruise industry, there are a wide variety of products, but what comes to mind almost immediately are the "Big Four"- Crystal, Regent, Seabourn, and Silversea. Others are nipping at their heals, but they are the standouts. Let's look more closely.

What they share in common are high space/passenger ratios, low crew/passenger ratios, attention to detail, high quality of service, food, drink, lecturers, sometimes stellar entertainment. The soft goods such as linens, pillows and towels will be divine, the spas uncrowded and elegant. The levels of inclusivity vary, but drinks are now complimentary across the board, and gratuities are included. Digging more deeply, the differences start to appear.

CRYSTAL

typical suite

white glove service

Crystal Cruises operates two similarly sized ships, the Symphony and Serenity. They carry about 1000-1100 passengers each, and date from 1995 and 2003 respectively. Crystal consistently ranks as the Conde Nast, Travel & Leisure top performer, though the Berlitz point score on the ships is somewhat lower than the newer ones from Seabourn and Silversea.

The appeal is simple- Crystal offers a traditional big-ship experience on a mid-sized ship, executed flawlessly. Dining is either set or by reservation, with several options, including Nobu, which reflects the Japanese DNA of the company. Specific unique programs include Berlitz language classes, Yamaha keyboard instruction, golf clinics. the line is not totally all-inclusive, but as of May 2012, there is an expanded list of inclusions  (from Cruise Critic):

Fares will now include beverages (defined as "complimentary fine wines and premium spirits throughout the ship, open bar service in all lounges," plus all non-alcoholic beverages including bottled water, soda, juices and specialty coffee drinks) and gratuities for housekeeping, dining and bar staff. While ultra-premium liquors and wines are excluded, the following amenities (many of which are already included in the cruise fare) are covered by the new policy: 

Roundtrip coach airfare from two dozen North American gateways (or an air credit), transfers included 

Dining in the ships' specialty restaurants and sushi bars 

Fitness classes, including specialty sessions like Pilates or spinning 

Golf lessons with PGA pros 

Walk-on-Water weighted vests and Nordic Pole walking equipment 

Shuttles to town 

Enrichment programming 

Self-service laundry facilities 

Children's programming 

REGENT

Regent Seven Seas Cruises, formerly Radisson, has as its motto 'Luxury Goes Exploring', which pretty well sums it up. It operates three mid sized ships carrying from 490 to 700 guests in all-suite accommodations. In fact, the Mariner and Voyager are all-balcony, all-suite, with a minimum size of 300 square feet. only the smaller Navigator (just refurbished May, 2012), has a few ocean view, no balcony suites. More casual than Crystal, the line also offers the most complete list of inclusions in the business (from the RSSC website):

ALL-INCLUSIVE VALUE

Regent Seven Seas Cruises fares include*:

• 2-for-1 Fares plus additional bonus savings of up to $10,000 per suite
• FREE Roundtrip Air* with FREE Upgrade to Business Class Air in Penthouse Suites and higher on Europe Voyages 
• FREE Unlimited Shore Excursions
• FREE Luxury Hotel Package
• FREE Unlimited Beverages Including Fine Wines and Premium Spirits
• FREE Pre-Paid Gratuities
• FREE Ground Transfers
• FREE In-suite mini-bar replenished daily
• FREE 24-hour room service and no additional charge for specialty restaurants
• Elegant casual dress code. Formal and semi-formal attire optional on sailings of 16 nights or longer
• Welcome bottle of champagne
• Up to four gourmet restaurants including the iconic new steakhouse Prime 7, and Signatures, featuring Le Cordon Bleu^®-inspired cuisine, Compass Rose, La Veranda plus the al fresco Pool Grill
• In-suite dining, served course-by-course during restaurant hours
• Butler service in Penthouse Suites and higher, included iPad^® in suite, iPod^® docking station and complimentary in-suite mini-bar setup
• Fitness programs, sauna and steam rooms in the spa
• Onboard activities including expert guest lectures, theatre performance and day time entertainment
• Interactive flat screen television in each suite with extensive media library and complimentary movies-on-demand
• Free onboard activities excludes spa treatments, boutique items, casino, laundry, telephone, internet connection access and other personal items.

So, it is hard to spend money onboard except for spa treatments, gaming, etc. A downside is that one is pre-paying, regardless of use, so if you are not the shore excursion type, or don't drink, you may be put off by the sticker price. But for those who just totally want to relax, and not be asked to swipe a card for everything, nothing beats the overall package. Featured 'luminaries' as they are called, round out the  offerings. These are experts in diverse fields, are always aboard and lead fine arts, history, food and wine, discovery and exploration themed discussions.

SEABOURN

Seabourn actually reinvented luxury cruising in the 1980's from the perceived stuffy and regimented heritage left over from the true luxury liners of the past. Instead, they thought small ship, big service. Starting at 104 onboard suites (Pride, Legend, Spirit) to a maximum of 225 suites on the new Odyssey, Sojourn and Quest ships, the level of personal attentive service and the ambience delivered is unmatched among the sector leaders.

The older ships date to the late 1980's, and lack the full balconies of the newer ships, but their small size coupled with bigger ship features make them extremely popular for exclusive ports and anchorages. Also, they have  sports platforms that go down, mostly in warm water destinations, for launching of water toys and swimming.

By contrast, the new (2009-2011) ships are state-of-the art, most highly evolved of all. interestingly, a Norwegian COmpany, Yran, has designed pretty much most of the ships sailed by Regent, Seabourn, and Silversea, so the likenesses are pretty apparent. This is how Seabourn describe themselves:

Intimate ships with just 104 or 225 suites

A Seabourn ship is like a private club, where members share expansive open decks, inviting social spaces, and the personalized attention of an exceptional crew.

Unique itineraries to must-see cities and hidden gems where larger ships cannot goEach cruise is a hand-picked collection of fascinating places, and each day brings a new opportunity for authentic discovery – another chance to explore your world in a personal and meaningful way.

Intuitive, gracious service provided by a staff passionate about pleasing our guests. It is supremely relaxing to be looked after by thoughtful hosts, whose knack for anticipating what you might like borders on the clairvoyant.

Spacious, all-suite accommodations with sweeping ocean views — many with verandas. Seabourn suites are thoughtfully appointed and inviting, designed as homes away from home with room to unwind or entertain.

Fine wines poured at lunch and dinner, and open bars throughout the ship. Meet and mingle with fellow guests in a carefree atmosphere, where no one has to pick up the tab.

   

All dining venues are complimentary — dine where, when and with whom you wish. From casual to elegant, indoors, al fresco or in your suite, a range of choices invites you to be spontaneous.

   

Gourmet dining experiences that rival the finest restaurants anywhere. From French fries to foie gras, every dish served on Seabourn receives the expert attention of highly skilled and imaginative chefs. The finest ingredients are selected with care, perfectly prepared to your order, and served with pride.

Complimentary welcome champagne and in-suite bar stocked with your preferences Soft drinks, beer and mineral water, complete glassware and your favorite wines or spirits are ready for your enjoyment or for entertaining

Tipping is neither required nor expected — service simply to delight youOur award-winning staff is driven only by their sincere desire to please, and with a smile that comes from the heart.


SILVERSEA

Launched in 1994, Silversea had only the 296 passenger Silver Cloud, then added the near identical Wind the next year, followed by the millenial sisters from 2000/2001Shadow and Whisper, both carrying 382 guests. The Spirit, closely resembling the new Seabourn ships, came into service in 2010- the largest at 540 guests.

Silversea and Seabourn are close matches, ardent competitors, with nuanced difference. Silversea boasts butlers in ALL categories, usually the preserve of the higher end suites. As much as anything, this is a statement about 'egalitarian exclusivity'- ie all are onboard the right ship and get the same treatment. 

Divine luxury is the hallmark, and the clientele clearly enjoys dressing up for the formal nights, the available Privato- or private car service, as well as shore concierge, baggage valet, 'Silver perspectives' enrichment series. On it goes. Their advertising, in answering "Why Silversea", answer with this:

Arrive in Style with Silversea — The Award-Winning Luxury Cruise Line

Most luxury brands began in Europe, and even today Italy is universally acknowledged as the world-centre of style, design, and that intangible allure called la dolce vita. There are the world’s leading fashion designers from Armani to Ferragamo, the temptations of la cucina Italiana, the Chiantis and Brunellos of Tuscany. And in the ultra-luxury travel market — there’s the polished perfection of Silversea. 

Onboard, the style is inspired by the golden age of cruising. Decorative Art Deco design elements lend a sophisticated 1930s ambience to this luxury cruise line. From the ceiling lights in Le Champagne and the sky-lit main staircase, to the innovative Stars Supper Club aboard Silver Spirit, Silversea guests sail the world surrounded by a provocative blend of modern elegance and timeless glamour — the sensations of history’s most romantic travel era.

So- style is more than a hallmark, it is the defining feature. As it is with ALL the cruise lines in this section! After all, what separates the best from the very good are the touches.  Style, graciousness, and ease go far beyond the competitions for best food and fanciest bathrooms. They capture the essence of privileged travel.

I have been aboard all but Seabourn of the four lines represented here. All are in a 'died and gone to heaven' category. All have some deficiencies- they're just not as lavish with the caviar these days....

But to experience a journey aboard any of these ships will spoil you for all else.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

JUST WHAT CONSTITUTES LUXURY CRUISING?

Just What Constitutes Luxury Cruising These Days?

Most people have an image of luxury travel- five star hotels, epicurean food, impeccable service, and always that intangible sense of exclusivity, far beyond the norm.

Put that imagery afloat, and it becomes distilled down to very specific elements.

The ship has to be special, with the highest caliber crew to be found. Big or small (and most tend to be smaller), the ‘passenger space ratio’, or amount of space per guest, must be high. The passenger to crew ratio, by definition, must be low. The appointments must be top notch throughout. The public rooms must be enticing and not garish, the staterooms, or better, the suites, must have the best mattresses and furniture, more than adequate storage, an inviting bathroom with  elegant fixtures, fluffy towels, deluxe toiletries. Its capabilities- to travel to remote areas, perhaps an ice-hardened hull, and itineraries that match those capabilities, really do set luxury ships apart from the ordinary.

The way you are treated onboard is paramount. People want excellence, but not stuffy formality, though they may well want to dress up for dinner. Butlers throughout have become a hallmark on at least one cruise line. Anticipating your every need, just before you were even thinking of it, provides the assurance that one can truly relax, knowing you will be well looked after at all times. No lineups to embark or disembark, or at a buffet.

The food HAS to be superlative. Almost all cruise ship fare is pretty good- dining is pretty much the drawing card across the whole industry, but aboard a luxury ship, it must be much better than that. Drinks tend to be included, though not universally, and the labels are expected to be premium brands. In fact, inclusions are big selling point, so you don’t get a bar bill or worry about gratuities or even transportation into town at every port. Some lines offer free computer labs or music lessons, others include many or all shore excursions.

The onboard facilities, whether the fitness area, the pool and spa, the lounges and bars, the observation decks should be a delight to the senses- again, to simply invite you to partake and relax.

The programs, and this usually means guest speakers, or themes such as food and wine, or golf, or photography and bird watching,  must be high caliber, with small groups and genuinely knowledgeable personnel. The shore experiences must mirror the quality aboard. The ability to ‘read’ the clientele interests, to not impose formula, canned activities, or any regimentation- ie to respect that the guests are generally intelligent, well travelled, discerning, curious, and well healed, again distinguishes the first rate from the not-so-great.

Finally, the itineraries. There is little sense in booking a luxury cruise and ending up docked in a port overrun with large mass-market megaships, and find the main attraction to be generic trinket shops. So luxury has come to be synonymous with ‘off-the-beaten-path’, or at least small harbours, and though there continue to be luxury cruises to the caribbean, names such as Nevis, Gustavia, Barbuda or St. Kitts pop up on the itineraries more than the better known stops of the U.S. Virgin islands or St. Maarten.

For every ‘rule’ there is an exception, and certainly there is luxury to be found aboard ships that are not generally branded as luxury, and stops in big draw ports. There can be Broadway or Las Vegas type entertainment and casinos, and often these pale in comparison to that found on the main stream market ships. Sometimes, absence of something is a hallmark; you won’t find climbing walls or waterslides aboard the luxury product. As well, some luxury ships AREN’T new and spacious, but have a classic ambience.

By definition, the concept of luxury is quite personal, and embraces adventure travel to tiaras on formal nights. For many, it connotes just the idea of quiet- not too many kids running around, contact with nature. For others, it means hobnobbing with an elite group of like-minded fellow travelers. Regardless, whether for the unabashed hedonist or the understated history buff, travel aboard a well chosen luxury cruise should put all concerns to rest, and allow full attention to the pleasurable tasks at hand, whatever they may be.

Next- an overview of luxury cruise lines.