THINKING ABOUT THE GALAPAGOS?

The Galapagos Islands, volcanic, remote and stark, straddle the equator over 1000 kms west of the Ecuador. They are synonymous with Darwin and the theory of evolution, but in real terms, they are a spectacular destination for viewing wildlife. Reptiles, sea mammals and birds are the star attractions.

And believe me, visitors do come. The local populace of close to 30,000, residing mostly in San Cristobal and  and Santa Cruz, but also on three others, are deeply engaged in tourism, with fishing a distant second industry.

The entire archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a biosphere reserve. As well as the National Park itself, there are 70,00 sq. kms of  marine reserve surrounding the islands. Despite this, the islands are under threat from overfishing, tourists, poaching and feral animals. That is why traveling with a well-accredited tour operator is so important.

The islands are greatly at the effect of the cold Humboldt Current, and alternating El Nino / La Nina weather patterns. These are not your average tropical paradise islands.

From Wikipedia:

"During the season known as the garua (June to November), the temperature by the sea is 22 °C (72 °F), a steady and cold wind blows from south and southeast, frequent drizzles (garuas) last most of the day, and dense fog conceals the islands. During the warm season (December to May), the average sea and air temperature rises to 25 °C (77 °F), there is no wind at all, there are sporadic, though strong, rains and the sun shines."

Despite what may seem like an inhospitable climate, in reality there are attractions in every season. In fact, it's quite simple. Here's how Geographic Expeditions explains it:

The Warm Season (December - May)

This is the warmest time of year and receives slightly more rainfall. The sea is at its warmest and is usually calmer. Although the islands receive more rain, the lower elevations of the islands where you will spend most of your trip offer blue skies and sunshine with occasional haze.

The Cool Season (June-November)

The drier garua season offers plenty of sunshine during the day, but it is less intense, with cloudier skies. Air temperature is lower, with highs in the upper 70s or mid-80s. The water temperature is at its coolest. During some years, the El Niño current may cause a much greater flow of warm waters, making the surface warmer and rainfall increase.

So good snorkeling opportunities or viewing mating rituals may well happen at different times of the year. Note, too, that there are many microclimates, with wetter and drier areas, windier and calmer- all of which meaning that no matter what time of year, there will be things to do and see. That said, the northern hemisphere summer months and Christmas are the most popular, with discounts usually available in May and September, with October and November also low season.

The pictures, I think, speak volumes about how utterly unique and captivating the islands are!

How to get there? Basically, one needs to fly to Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil), and from there on to either of the two Galapagos airports. Once there, it is possible to stay onshore at various lodges, but most people elect to take a cruise from 3-7 nights. Frankly, unless time is a real limiting factor, I would go for a week.

As to cruises, they can be budget to luxe, but the real delineator is size of ship. There are many self owned operators of small boats sleeping from 6-12 guests, or even less. The advantages of intimacy, ability to get very close to shore, and the greater likelihood of having some remote bay all to yourselves, have to be balanced against the few amenities aboard, the more spartan accommodations, and the limited programs of the yachts.

At the other end, there are several 100 passenger plus ships- Celebrity Cruise Lines Xpedition being the benchmark,

 but also the Canodros Explorer II, an all-suite, Ecuadorian run floating palace:

Rounding those two out are the venerable Legend and Santa Cruz.

In between are my favourites, the  Isabela II, Lindblad/ National Geo's Endeavor and Islander, plus International Expedition's Evolution:

Theses ships get in pretty close, have phenomenal naturalists and  other personnel aboard, decent creature comforts, yet retain some of the charm of smaller vessels.

All vacations to the Galapagos will be rewarding, and should be combined with an extension in Ecuador or Peru- Quito, the Amazon, or the mountain lodges will all be more than worthwhile. Prices are up there, but I have yet to hear of anyone disappointed.

If you have been there or know something that should be noted, please do add your comments!